Tbilisi – The Heart of Georgia

As the scorching summer sun tightened its grip on Qatar, we knew it was time for a change of scenery and a retreat from the relentless heat. This led us to a hidden gem nestled at the crossroads of Eastern Europe and Western Asia – Georgia.

a bird’s-eye view of Tbilisi from Mtatsminda Mountain

We stepped off the plane armed with travel wisdom from online reviews – or so we thought. Fai got roped into taking a taxi directly from the airport, and we embarked on a scenic tour that lead us to our hotel which had the most picturesque view from our room. At the drop-off, we ended up handing over more money than we would care to admit, all while receiving a masterclass in the art of scamming with a side of sightseeing.

We rode the Funicular up and down Mtatsminda, basking in the embrace of the summer sun atop the mountain!

In the heart of Georgia, Tbilisi is a city that straddles a delicate balance between its ancient roots and its contemporary spirit, and stands as a living testament to the passage of time. Its cobbled streets whisper tales of history and its ancient walls bear witness to countless love stories, each echoing through the ornate balconies and hidden courtyards. On our first day, the city’s bridges became pathways to enchantment as we watched the sun dip below the horizon, casting a warm glow upon the Kura River.

From its green valleys to towering mountain peaks, Georgia’s landscapes are a treat for the senses. I never thought I would enjoy a group tour, but the one we embarked on to the breathtaking mountainside of Georgia was a journey that transcended borders and cultures. Every person brought their own flavor to the mix, and our jovial tour guide kept us entertained during long rides. We explored the Jvari Monastery and had lunch at a sun-kissed vineyard where we tried Georgian cuisine for the first time; Khinkali (dumplings stuffed with meat), Imeruli Khachapuri (cheese filled bread) and finished off with Tarkhuna (a carbonated soft drink) infused with tarragon, which easily became our favourite drink for the rest of our trip.

As we navigated the winding roads that led us to Pasanauri, Kazbegi and Gudauri, the splendour of the Georgian landscape continued to unfold before us. As a lover of horses, the sight of horses grazing in the meadows felt like a scene from a dream! We spent the entire afternoon venturing into the gentle embrace of the countryside, where time seemed to stand still. 

In the tranquil beauty of the rolling hills and whispering meadows, Fai’s warm smile mirrored the sun’s glow, and every moment brought solace and peace. At the end of the day, the tour was more than just a collection of places visited – it was a celebration of human connections that transformed strangers into friends.

Another memory that is etched to our memories is visiting the Narikala Fortress and the Mother of Georgia – once planned, and then, by accident (and surprise)! The easiest way to reach the Narikala Fortress is by a cable car connecting the Rike Park to the Fortress of Narikala. However, on our last day, we decided to climb the Betlemi Street Stairs, not knowing where it lead. We were delighted when we eventually reached a garden overlooking the city below, and we rested under its vines. Once we were well rested, we both decided (with a mixture of excitement and questionable judgment) that instead of taking the path down to get back into the heart of Old Tbilisi, climbing further up the hill was an adventure waiting to happen.

St. Nicholas Church from the wall of Narikala Fortress

So we embarked on what turned out to be a steep escapade, and our determined faces quickly transform into comical expressions of disbelief. By the time we reached the top of Sololaki Hill, we were laughing, huffing and puffing, but victorious in our quest for the most unconventional cardio workout ever. Here, we were once again greeted by The Mother of Georgia, with her sword in one hand and a bowl of wine in the other.

That was one of the many times we ventured into the unknown in Tbilisi – we climbed, hiked, walked, and discovered so many. I miss Tbilisi (minus its large dogs which could probably give Godzilla a run for his kibble) so much. Within the embrace of its centuries-old architecture, Tbilisi pulsed with a modern energy, bustling with a dynamic fusion of cultures and a chorus of languages – surprisingly Arabic, too! Amidst the captivating symphony of cozy cafés, eclectic street art + graffiti’s and vibrant markets, we were never far from a new adventure or a moment of wonder.

Even so, one of the things I loved most about Tbilisi was its rich history, where layers of conquerors and civilizations have woven a tapestry of stories, making each corner a living museum. Whether it’s the glint of jewelry catching your eye or the brilliance of local artwork adorning the wall, the radiance of handmade Georgian crafts and vibrant textiles dances in harmony with the gleaming storefronts, creating an inviting aura that’s impossible to resist. 

We tired ourselves with adventure and exploration during the daytime, and at night, strolled in the narrow alleys adorned with twinkling lights which lead us to charming bistros where laughter and nightlife mingled with the aroma of delectable cuisine. Tbilisi’s romantic spirit flowed with the melodies of their street musicians, drawing us closer. In the flutter of postcards we sent to our siblings, we told them of Tbilisi’s timeless beauty, effortlessly intertwining its old-world charm with the vitality of modern life.

Abanotubani, or the “sulphur bath district” which lead to the only Masjid in Tbilisi where we stopped by to pray, every now and then.

Eight days later, we bid farewell to Georgia and its warm-hearted people. Until we visit you again, dear Sakartvelo, these moments we have shared are destined to be cherished forever.